Well I ended up doing the wiring this morning and got so into it, I forgot to take pics as I went along. I think it's fairly straight forward though as you'll see in the steps I've outlined, and hopefully the pics I took afterwards help.
Parts I used:
Light bar
Buy NAOEVO 42 inch 320W Spot Flood LED Light Bar Curved Strobe Amber White Off Road Lighting, 6 Modes Memory Function Fog Driving Work Light with 12 FT Wiring Harness for Truck Boat Tractor Jeep Pickup: Light Bars - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
Additional harness
Buy NAOEVO 18 AWG 30 Feet Wiring Harness Extension Kit 2-Wire Light Bar Extension Wire Harness for Off Road LED Work Light Bar (30FT): Wiring Harnesses - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
Butyl tape
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095NMPNZ3?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Trailer harness
https://www.menards.com/main/tools/...-9926-4a63-acbb-023d25174f5c&ipos=2&exp=false
3M tape
https://www.menards.com/main/tools/...-1a59-4dd4-9fc6-87ae708aeec2&ipos=1&exp=false
Some may like this and some may not, but here’s how I did the wiring:
The light bar I bought is a dual color one, so its harness has 3 wires. The additional harness I bought has only 2 wires, so I decided my best option was to “split” the harness coming off the light bar and run 2 wires down each side of the roof. To do that, I ran a piece of the 2 wire harness across to the passenger side, using the top most cooling fin channel to hold the harness. I don’t think the light bar will get hot enough to cause any damage to the harness, plus the jacket is fairly thick, so I think there’s enough protection there.
Once I had the harness routed down both sides of the roof, I soldered and double heat shrunk all the outside connections. Then I tucked the harness into the very same channel that the brackets are bolted to. That provided an ideal way to keep the harness out of sight, and provide some additional protection from the elements. After I had the harness in place on both sides, I tore off roughly 3” long pieces of the Butyl tape and tucked them into channel to keep the harness in place.
Once I got to the rear most crossbar, I dropped the harness into the channel stamped into the roof. The harness actually presses into channel fairly well, and after a quick trip to the store nothing had moved. As you can see in the pics, it rained while I was out, so once I dry it off I’ll apply the 3M tape in the roof channel just to make sure things stay in place.
Once I had the wiring inside the liftgate, all I did was pull back the weather stripping and continue to run the harness down to the rear scuff plate then push the weather stripping back into place. Then I removed the scuff plate and ran the harness under it and into the spare tire well (and I have no issues with the liftgate fully closing and locking).
What it looks like with the liftgate closed. Barely noticeable I think!
Here the additional 7-pin harness is connected to the OE one.
Here's the connection from the additional 7-pin harness to the main harness that goes to the switch (only 2 wires are actually used: white for ground and black for battery).
Here's the routing at the bottom of the rear seat where the fuse and relay are.
And where I mounted the switch.
Last but not least, here's a short video of the different light modes
The last thing I'll do it get it over to Delta Sonic for a Super Kiss wash to see how it holds up, and get that interior cleaned up too!!!
I’m sure I’ll make a few adjustments to the harness, but for now I’m very happy with the results. Given that the alternative is to drill a hole, drop the headliner, then hope nothing leaks when it’s done, I’ll take this hole free option any time!