[givemeahybridmazda]

Hello,

I've had my CX-50 S Prem. Plus for a few days and it's been running fine up until this morning when the car wouldn't respond to my fob (I forget how I even unlocked the door tbh) and was completely dead when I went into the vehicle. I jump started it and then the lights, dashboard, etc. went on but no matter what, the engine won't turn on. The light won't turn green on the push to start button even after holding my fob to it.

Anyone experience this before? Mazda roadside assistance guy who came verified the battery is fine and thinks I've been "locked out" of the car starting. I'm making this thread to see if anyone's experienced that before? I'm seeing this warning on the dashboard: "Low battery mode, drive car to recharge battery" (not verbatim) so I thought it had to be a battery issue but I'm being told it's a computer thing and it has to be reset by reconnecting the battery. Also, remote start via the app didn't work either.

Very bad sign this is happening less than a week after buying this.

 

[ZoomZoomBoom12]

Your key fob is probably in power save mode and you need to touch the start button with the fob itself. Had this happen in my 3 when I first got it. I think the sequence to take it out of power save mode is, press the lock button on the fob 4 times in 3 seconds and this will activate the red operation light. Then hold the lock button for 1.5 seconds and the fob should go back to ‘normal mode.

 

[givemeahybridmazda]

Your key fob is probably in power save mode and you need to touch the start button with the fob itself. Had this happen in my 3 when I first got it. I think the sequence to take it out of power save mode is, press the lock button on the fob 4 times in 3 seconds and this will activate the red operation light. Then hold the lock button for 1.5 seconds and the fob should go back to ‘normal mode.

Thanks, I tried disabling power save mode and unfortunately this wasn't the issue but this is good to know! According to the manual the power saving mode just turns off the "advanced keyless entry system".

Someone on Reddit said they had a similar issue to mine and that the only way to recharge the cx-50 is to first disconnect then reconnect the battery. I'll be bringing it to the dealership though to hear their thoughts - I'll post my findings here incase anyone ever runs into a similar problem.

 

[ZeekZirconPPT]

Did you connect both positive and negative jumper cables to the battery? If so, that could be a problem. You should connect the negative to a separate ground point.

This might sound silly, but did you make sure the car is all the way in park? If so, try putting the vehicle in neutral and try starting again.

 

[givemeahybridmazda]

Did you connect both positive and negative jumper cables to the battery? If so, that could be a problem. You should connect the negative to a separate ground point.

This might sound silly, but did you make sure the car is all the way in park? If so, try putting the vehicle in neutral and try starting again.

Nope, just the positive. Car was all the way in park too. I had a few people look at it in my driveway and all were stumped, it's at the dealership now but too soon to know what happened so far

 

[ZeekZirconPPT]

May have accidentally activated the immobilizer.

 

[givemeahybridmazda]

Back from the dealership, they replaced the battery and all is well. They said the battery had a bad cell. No idea how it died in 5 days, I wonder if theres a phantom draw. Anyone else have a battery die on them so quickly?

 

[RedBaron]

Back from the dealership, they replaced the battery and all is well. They said the battery had a bad cell. No idea how it died in 5 days, I wonder if theres a phantom draw. Anyone else have a battery die on them so quickly?

I've seen multiple posts in various forums over the years, describing just that kind of 'infant mortality' in batteries. I'd say it was rare, but it DOES happen.

 

[givemeahybridmazda]

I've seen multiple posts in various forums over the years, describing just that kind of 'infant mortality' in batteries. I'd say it was rare, but it DOES happen.

That's reassuring and hopefully thats the case, much better than having to diagnose a parasitic battery drain!

Thank you and thanks everyone else for the help here

 

[givemeahybridmazda]

May have accidentally activated the immobilizer.

This is the most logical conclusion, however the battery was tested as having a bad cell so perhaps it wasnt the immobilizer.

Some info about this system that may be useful to others: I checked the manual and saw it says not to turn off your car if the red car icon with a key on it comes up on the dash and doesn't go away when youre driving - this could mean the car's immobilizer will activate once you turn off the car. It suggests to bring it to a dealership asap if this happens.

 

[michael77stt]

I’m dealing with this same issue. Had the car for 2 weeks. They replaced the battery saying it was a bad cell. Driving today and got same message in dash about “drive vehicle to charge battery”. The only thing I have plugged in is a phone charger to USB and a dash cam but I even unplugged that ben though it shuts off when car is switched off. I’ve had the same dash cam and phone charger in my 2020 CX-5 with no issues for 2 years.

 

[givemeahybridmazda]

I’m dealing with this same issue. Had the car for 2 weeks. They replaced the battery saying it was a bad cell. Driving today and got same message in dash about “drive vehicle to charge battery”. The only thing I have plugged in is a phone charger to USB and a dash cam but I even unplugged that ben though it shuts off when car is switched off. I’ve had the same dash cam and phone charger in my 2020 CX-5 with no issues for 2 years.

Sorry to hear even the new one is giving you trouble. I've had no issues since the new battery was installed, however I did start to keep my key fob in a faraday box so that it can't communicate with my car. Not sure if thats what messed up my original battery though

 

[michael77stt]

Sorry to hear even the new one is giving you trouble. I've had no issues since the new battery was installed, however I did start to keep my key fob in a faraday box so that it can't communicate with my car. Not sure if thats what messed up my original battery though

What’s a “faraday box”?

 

[givemeahybridmazda]

What’s a “faraday box”?

Amazon.com: briidea Faraday Box Key Fob Protector, RFID Signal Blocking Box, Faraday Box Signal Blocking Shielding Box for Car Key : Automotive

Buy briidea Faraday Box Key Fob Protector, RFID Signal Blocking Box, Faraday Box Signal Blocking Shielding Box for Car Key: Remote Starters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

I got something like this. Its meant to prevent the fob and car from being able to communicate. Some people claim that if the fob and car are close, the fob will try to remain connected and that can drain a battery. Sounds unlikely to me but I needed a place for my keys anyways so I gave it a shot.

 

[MAZDAMAYNARD]

Dealing with same issue now. Dealer claims battery is good. Won’t replace even though it has needed jump starting 3X so far (I have stopped driving until I can get this sorted out). I have a moderately equipped home shop and with my “manual” equipment, the battery tests bad. Drove home from dealer service yesterday smelling sulphuric acid all the way there and back home. By the time I got home and popped hood, the battery was practically ready to catch fire. Took video. Smoke everywhere. Went back to dealer in my work car, showed video to service department regarding the “good” battery. Response was, “bring it back in and we can recheck the battery!” Unbelievable!! Alternator is sensing battery fault and overcharging as result (also confirmed by my home shop equipment). Thinking I’m just gonna go get a new battery and install myself rather than continue fight with service department. After 30 plus years of Mazda ownership, I’m done. This will be my last one unless I move to an area that has a different Mazda dealership.

 

[givemeahybridmazda]

Dealing with same issue now. Dealer claims battery is good. Won’t replace even though it has needed jump starting 3X so far (I have stopped driving until I can get this sorted out). I have a moderately equipped home shop and with my “manual” equipment, the battery tests bad. Drove home from dealer service yesterday smelling sulphuric acid all the way there and back home. By the time I got home and popped hood, the battery was practically ready to catch fire. Took video. Smoke everywhere. Went back to dealer in my work car, showed video to service department regarding the “good” battery. Response was, “bring it back in and we can recheck the battery!” Unbelievable!! Alternator is sensing battery fault and overcharging as result (also confirmed by my home shop equipment). Thinking I’m just gonna go get a new battery and install myself rather than continue fight with service department. After 30 plus years of Mazda ownership, I’m done. This will be my last one unless I move to an area that has a different Mazda dealership.

That's gotta be the worst service I've ever heard. Batteries afaik aren't even that pricy, and thats the hill they're dying on..sorry you're going through that.

I would take that up with Mazda directly, and bypass the dealership. I would hope Mazda would go to town on the dealership

 

[MAZDAMAYNARD]

That's gotta be the worst service I've ever heard. Batteries afaik aren't even that pricy, and thats the hill they're dying on..sorry you're going through that.

I would take that up with Mazda directly, and bypass the dealership. I would hope Mazda would go to town on the dealership

Thinking about doing just that. For me tho the time already wasted probably cost me more than the price of a new battery. my first (new) Mazda was a 1990 MX6. Same dealership. Took car in under warranty for what I thought to be wheel bearing noise from front right wheel. Service department CHANGED THE HLAs (hydraulic lash adjusters) in the engine! Nearly slapped the service tech, lol. Couldn’t believe it. Noise was still present. Ended up fixing myself by changing the wheel bear assembly on front right. Noise disappeared. Guess I should’ve learned my lesson by now with my local Mazda service dept. Guess I was hoping for some improvement after 30 years but apparently it’s business as usual.