[Trickster]

Curt class three hitch #13510, rated for 3500 lbs and 525 lbs tongue weight.
4 bolts, remove center blank, minor zip disc of a small amount of black plastic behind the bumper, a few traces of my DNA here and there ( if I ain’t bleeding, I ain’t working)😏 and about 30 minutes later, done.
Easy peasy.
For those of you in Canada, Truck Parts Superstore online.
$301 CDN delivered in two days.

 

[MaxF]

Cold you provide after pictures? Back and side view, if possible. Also, did you do wiring?

 

[Trickster]

Cold you provide after pictures? Back and side view, if possible. Also, did you do wiring?

Did not due wiring…..yet.
Lots of pics online and on Curt’s website.
I will see what I can get for the forum though.

 

[Wolflab1968]

I, too, just installed the Curt hitch, and it fits like a glove, way easier than it was putting one on a CX-5. there's no fishing of bolts through the frame, it goes right into the pre-drilled threaded holes with 4 bolts. The wiring issue is a little different. My Mazda dealership in Missoula, Montana said they can't yet order the Mazda wiring harness, so I purchased the Curt (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051NNUHQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) harness for $40 and was just going to splice that into the taillights and be done. However, the first thing I learned is that the paneling in the rear is one entire piece and is a PITA to remove to get to the taillight wiring. And second, the CX-50's taillight wiring is like angel hair pasta. There was no way I was going to try and line-splice the two together. So I dug a little deeper on the net and found out that E-Trailer carries the Takonsha T-One connector that seems to right now be the only custom trailer converter harness that'll fit the CX-50. It runs $100 on E-Trailer and plugs right into the taillight connectors like all the customized Curt ones did on older year models of the CX-5. Going to see how that works. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051NNUHQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

[Wolflab1968]

I, too, just installed the Curt hitch, and it fits like a glove, way easier than it was putting one on a CX-5. there's no fishing of bolts through the frame, it goes right into the pre-drilled threaded holes with 4 bolts. The wiring issue is a little different. My Mazda dealership in Missoula, Montana said they can't yet order the Mazda wiring harness, so I purchased the Curt (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051NNUHQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) harness for $40 and was just going to splice that into the taillights and be done. However, the first thing I learned is that the paneling in the rear is one entire piece and is a PITA to remove to get to the taillight wiring. And second, the CX-50's taillight wiring is like angel hair pasta. There was no way I was going to try and line-splice the two together. So I dug a little deeper on the net and found out that E-Trailer carries the Takonsha T-One connector that seems to right now be the only custom trailer converter harness that'll fit the CX-50. It runs $100 on E-Trailer and plugs right into the taillight connectors like all the customized Curt ones did on older year models of the CX-5. Going to see how that works. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051NNUHQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Sorry, wrong link. It should be: https://www.etrailer.com/p-TK85VR.html?hhyear=2023&hhmake=Mazda&hhmodel=CX-50

 

[Trickster]

I, too, just installed the Curt hitch, and it fits like a glove, way easier than it was putting one on a CX-5. there's no fishing of bolts through the frame, it goes right into the pre-drilled threaded holes with 4 bolts. The wiring issue is a little different. My Mazda dealership in Missoula, Montana said they can't yet order the Mazda wiring harness, so I purchased the Curt (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051NNUHQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) harness for $40 and was just going to splice that into the taillights and be done. However, the first thing I learned is that the paneling in the rear is one entire piece and is a PITA to remove to get to the taillight wiring. And second, the CX-50's taillight wiring is like angel hair pasta. There was no way I was going to try and line-splice the two together. So I dug a little deeper on the net and found out that E-Trailer carries the Takonsha T-One connector that seems to right now be the only custom trailer converter harness that'll fit the CX-50. It runs $100 on E-Trailer and plugs right into the taillight connectors like all the customized Curt ones did on older year models of the CX-5. Going to see how that works. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051NNUHQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Both your links show a $36 Curt splice in wiring harness.
Is that your that the one you bought?

 

[Wolflab1968]

Both your links show a $36 Curt splice in wiring harness.
Is that your that the one you bought?

I meant to post this link to the one I bought from ETrailer: 2023 Mazda CX-50 Trailer Wiring | etrailer.com

 

[RedBaron]

Both your links show a $36 Curt splice in wiring harness.
Is that your that the one you bought?

I think he meant this: 2023 Mazda CX-50 Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring - Tekonsha (etrailer.com)

 

[Wolflab1968]

RedBaron is correct. I tried reposting the right link twice and it didn’t post for some reason.

 

[Trickster]

I think he meant this: 2023 Mazda CX-50 Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring - Tekonsha (etrailer.com)

Right, but that plug doesn’t mount to anything just dangles out from the rear hatch, right?

 

[Wolflab1968]

You can let it dangle, or you can get a mount like I did: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories_and_Parts/CURT/C58001.html This just attaches to the receiver and holds the 4-pin connector in place. With this you have to drop the connector out of the spare wheel well and protect the cable with a piece of wire loom or tape, but only a few inches would protrude.

 

[Wolflab1968]

UPDATE: I finally got the Takonsha wiring harness installed, and it works like a dream. Everything snaps right into the existing left and right taillight wires. The only thing a little difficult is running the battery wire. Rather than going under the car I took a long metal shiskabob skewer and poked a hole through the rubber boot where the main interior wiring loom goes through the firewall and ran the harness power wire through it to the battery. Then I just tucked the wire in along the door kick plates and under the back seat into the spare wheel well. Perfect installation and very easy with the exception of getting a small hole poked through that thick rubber boot. https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit.../CX-50/2023/TK85VR.html?VehicleID=20236005577

 

[CX-50 Meridian Edition]

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but for those that have installed the Curt hitch themselves, can you confirm that in Step 2 where the bumper support is marked and cut, you're removing the actual piece of plastic between the 2 pieces of tape? It's not just cutting slots into the support to allow the welded receiver brackets to fit?

The instructions say to trim it (not remove it), and there's no pics of it afterwards so I just want to make sure before I tackle my install this weekend. Thanks!

 

[Wolflab1968]

I just trimmed it back enough for the hitch to fit without catching, otherwise you'll cut the support in half. It was bitter cold out when I did mine, and the plastic broke easily. I also broke all my pop togs trying to pry them out, and had to replace 4 of them to reconnect the support back to the bumper, and those suckers were nearly $4 each!

 

[Trickster]

It’s a removal between the tape.
I then secured the ends of the cut pieces with cable ties just for a little bit more rigidity.

 

[CX-50 Meridian Edition]

Great info, thanks.
EDIT: The hitch install went smoother than I expected, even though I did it rolling around on the floor in my 42° garage. I did have a harder time getting the right side lined up compared to the left, but sometimes that's the way it goes. Resting the hitch on a pair of floor stands was a huge help getting it into place, then tweaking it with a floor jack and piece of wood was needed for final alignment of the last bolt. I used to install hitches for a living many years ago, but then I had the comfort of a raised vehicle which makes all the difference in the world. The pics provided in the Curt instructions really don't provide perspective of what the plastic piece is that has to be cut away. But once you're under the rear and see it's just a thin piece of plastic, there's nothing to worry about.

Thanks to everyone who's posted their info about installing the hitch!